TAKAYNA / TARKINE

Welcome to takayna / Tarkine

Australia's largest expanse of cool-temperate rainforest blankets Tasmania’s north west.

It’s a mossy, magical place; an enchanted forest framed by buttongrass moorlands and a rugged, remote coastline.

The wilderness spans a huge area, about half the size of Lebanon. From the south, takayna (PRON: ‘Tar-kine-ah’ as in ‘pine’) / Tarkine (PRON: ‘Tark-eyen’ as in ‘pine’) is entered by riding the Fatman Barge, a vehicle ferry that crosses the dark, mirrored waters of the Pieman River. From the north, the approach skirts the wild north-west coastline, passing the Edge of the World, where the Southern Ocean charges ashore. It’s all as evocative as it sounds.

The forest is filled with myrtle beech, celery top pine and blackwood, with the area’s wild rivers lined with Huon pines, one of the world’s oldest trees. The waterways can be explored in kayaks or on river cruises, and walking trails head deep into the fairy-tale forest or climb to low mountain peaks.

Loop through northern takayna / Tarkine on the Tarkine Drive – a 60-kilometre circuit journey on sealed road, through some of the region’s most dramatic landscapes. The drive begins just 60 kilometres from Stanley or 38 kilometres from Smithton. It features more than 20 stops, with highlights including the rainforest around Julius River, the forest from the Milkshake Hills, and the fern-filled natural archway and sinkholes at Trowutta Arch.

As the road hits the west coast at Arthur River, take the short detour to Gardiner Point to find yourself at the Edge of the World, where you can feel the fierceness of the longest uninterrupted stretch of ocean on the planet. Driftwood litters the shores, and waves hurtle in wild scenes along a frayed and furious coast.

This vast tract of wilderness is a place to form a profound connection with the environment, and to reconnect with yourself.

Trowutta Arch

Take a short walk through rare, ancient trees to reach Trowutta Arch – a natural wonder featuring a collapsed cave and two mystical sinkholes.

To be in this enchanting place is a mesmerising experience – it’s as though you’ve stumbled upon a secret. It’s hard to believe, then, that this secluded spot only takes about 1 kilometre to reach on foot.

Take a scenic car journey through the quiet locality of Trowutta: wind along a country road as the lush farming vista falls away to reveal rows of eucalypt trees. Enter the trailhead on Gun Road – a dirt roadway flanked by mighty gums and cool temperate rainforest trees – and feel the atmosphere shift as the sunshine fades into a shadowy, moss-green realm. Walk among trees of colossal height and width – including Eucalypt Regnans, the oldest-growing eucalypt. Smell the sweet scent of the Leatherwood trees with their dainty oval-shaped leaves and, during summer, pure white flowers. These trees, only found in Tasmania, produce rich and distinctive Leatherwood honey. The cathedral-like Myrtle species here can grow to 50 metres and reach an age of 500 years. Exposed tree roots snake up from the earth in a captivating coil, and sunshine dapples through feathery man ferns.

Descend some steps to arrive at Trowutta Arch. The first sinkhole here is dry and dark, shaded by an imposing natural archway of eroded limestone. Beyond this arch – down steep, bumpy terrain – is the second sinkhole. A sheen of sage-green algae plates this cenote, sitting in quiet stillness beside an immense, patterned partition of rock. In stark contrast with the shadowy archway, this sinkhole is illuminated by sunlight filtering through the lofty trees. This unique and striking sinkhole is more than 20 metres deep, so stay well away from the edge and simply bask in its serenity before wandering back to the trailhead.

Philosopher Falls

Weave through a mythical forest on this gentle journey to Philosopher Falls.

This approximately two-kilometre return walk is stimulating and otherworldly – leading you to the sleek, flowing waters of the dramatic falls.

You’ll find Philosopher Falls at the heart of Waratah – Tasmania’s oldest mining town. In 1871, James Smith (also known as “Philosopher” Smith) found tin nearby at Mount Bischoff, which transformed the financial fortunes of Tasmania. Waratah sprang up as a hub for prospectors and the support centre for the richest tin mine in the Southern Hemisphere. Tin mining is long gone, but its ghosts live on in Waratah’s historic buildings.

Begin the Philosopher Falls walk and enter a remote haven of tranquillity. Roam the verdant rainforest between pencil-thin trees and beneath archways formed by tumbled trunks.

This walk is flat and easy for most of the journey, taking you along an earthen track and the occasional human-made boardwalk through wet tracts of wilderness. Sunlight streams down through warped, mossy branches that bend through the air like spiders’ legs. Wet, fuzzy foliage juts out along rock formations that border parts of the trail. In autumn, glossy mushrooms rise from drenched tree trunks like tiny buttons, while some larger, umbrella-shaped toadstools spring from the earth in vibrant reds, sprinkled with bright blobs of white. It’s as if you’ve stepped into a magical forest where fairies roam.

Towards the end of this trek, the flat track meets with a sturdy stairway descending to the lookout of the graceful, flowing Philosopher Falls. Water cascades from one natural pool to the next – creating plumes of mist after heavier rainfalls.

Enjoy the natural soundtrack of rushing fresh water and soak up the magic of this pristine place.

Arthur River Cruise

Breathe deep and glide along this misty, untouched river into the wild heart of takayna / Tarkine.

Explore the wilderness on a 14-kilometre cruise along the Arthur River, disappearing deep into the rainforest, with Arthur River Cruises. This gentle adventure begins at the mouth of the river in the far north-west of the state. Tread aboard the MV George Robinson – a charming, bold red and white, steel-hulled boat with some 40 years’ experience of navigating the Arthur River under its belt. This vessel is teeming with character, clad with warm Tasmanian timber and brass. Settle in, mingle with the passengers and enjoy the smooth, winding ride taking you to the junction of Arthur and Frankland Rivers.

Mist whispers across this calm lake painted with deep-green forest reflections. Listen to commentary from the tour guide and skipper as the vegetation morphs around you from coastal heath to wet sclerophyll wilds and cool temperate rainforest. Drift past thickets of Leatherwood, Sassafras, Silver wattle and Brooker’s gum. Dark green leaves rustle from the branches of ghostly-white trees. White-bellied sea eagles soar through the invigorating, crisp air and snatch fish from the water with their tenacious talons.

Fill up on morning tea before you arrive at Turks Landing for a two-hour dose of land-based immersion in nature. Take your time enjoying a guided stroll amongst the ferns and trees past the frayed, many-hued branches of stringybark and intricate giant tree ferns. Tuck into a barbecue lunch of creamy potato salad, seared meats, bread rolls, Tasmanian wine and other snacks and drinks. All that’s left to do now is go back the way you came, returning in the afternoon to the jetty.

Getting there

Corinna, at the southern end of takayna / Tarkine, is a five-hour drive, or 350 kilometres, north-west of Hobart, and a 3.5-hour drive, or 250 kilometres west of Launceston. Arthur River, at the northern end, is a 3.5-hour drive, or 290 kilometres, west of Launceston.

Through-roads in takayna / Tarkine are the unsealed Western Explorer between Smithton and Zeehan and the B23 from Corinna to Waratah. The Fatman barge over the Pieman River operates daily 9am to 7pm from October to April, and 9am to 5pm at other times.

Some guided tours are available to take you into takayna / Tarkine, including transport to Trowutta Arch with Tall Timbers Tasmania and Tarkine Trails. Take an escorted trek through the rainforest with Tarkine Wilderness Walks, staying at Tarkine Wilderness Lodge. Book a tour online ahead of your visit with one of the local operators. Public transport is limited in this remote area, but bus timetables for nearby towns like Waratah can be found on transport.tas.gov.au.

Accessibility

The end of the trail at Trowutta Arch has a steep slope heading down towards the sinkhole, plus some stairs – stay well away from the water’s edge and take extra care navigating this area. Alternatively, stick to the track, avoid walking down the slope beneath the arch and appreciate the sinkhole from a distance. Guide dogs are permitted at Trowutta Arch. Other support dogs are welcome, but registered permits are required. The Philosopher Falls walk includes some steps, with handrails.

The small, historic boat used for the Arthur River Cruise is not wheelchair accessible, but is accessible for people with other mobility-related disabilities and for people travelling with dog guides. Please note some walking tracks at Turks Landing are uneven, with some exposed tree roots and low branches. Calling ahead on 0427 885 792 to book this tour is essential.

Stay in takayna / Tarkine at converted miners’ cottages at Corinna and at Arthur River. Nearby towns with accommodation include Smithton, Stanley, Waratah, Tullah and Zeehan. Accommodation in Waratah is available at the caravan park and camping ground, the 1909-built Bischoff Hotel and a handful of holiday rentals.